Panama

As hard as it was I managed to tear myself away from the Costa Rican coast to head for Bocas del Toro, Panama. But as MLK said:
Human progress is neither automatic nor inevitable... Every step toward the goal of justice requires sacrifice, suffering, and struggle; the tireless exertions and passionate concern of dedicated individuals.
Slightly different context . . . but we had some stiff climbing ahead and I am ready for a change of continent.
The border was a pleasant 45 km pedal over a small ridge, past more bananas, bananas, bananas, and through some drizzle. Border crossings are always interesting and you can never be sure what will find. I realize now that my experiences with the US/Canada/Mexico are not typical. Often borders are confusing ramshackle affairs with official buildings differing little from the vernacular huts - though usually with metal roofs. Panama was somewhere in between, however the bridge seemed downright hazardous.
Requirements for entry into a country vary as well. We heard that Panama requires proof of solvency, $500 will do, and proof of onward travel in the form of a plane ticket. Matt read of a cyclist that was required to buy a bus ticket to enter Panama within the past year. Obviously absurd, and I was ready to make a scene. But like many crossings it was a swipe of the passport, whack with a stamp. The only novel event is that we conducted our paperwork 10 meters from the bay where trucks were sprayed down as part of agricultural pest control (probably DDT).
We changed our Costa Rica colones for Panamanian balboas, but they actually use US dollars. I have not used dollars for awhile . . . well, since the US, and the texture felt finger tip familiar. While changing my currency at, yet another, Chinese owned grocery I noticed prices were considerably lower and Guinness is brewed in Panama!
We started pedaling with the hope of making a boat for Bocas del Toro off the Panama coast. We had one good sized climb that turned out to be a steep little ass kicker but really quite nice in a painful way. But the road was in good shape and Panama has shoulders unlike Costa Rica. We made the docks as the sun dropped and realized the water taxi was not going to fit us and three bikes - no way. The scene was complicated by a small entourage attempting to negotiate our trip to Bocas on different boats - for which they expected a tip. Occasionally, this is useful but usually aggressively annoying - the later this time. But they figure out you are not the typical tourist and we negotiated a boat to Bocas for $40 total, 3 people and 300+ pounds of bikes and gear.
Bocas is nice but a little touristy for my taste on the main island. However, Matt found a cayuca maker in his wanderings. He was replacing the gunnel on an older boat and answered our questions cheerfully. The size boat he was working on is carved from single log in 3 weeks and costs about $250 to buy new, then more for paint etc... Good to know. We all agreed that was cheap for all that work

Now we are stuck hanging out at a hostel in Bocas because tomorrow is the ten year census. Everyone in the country must remain inside until someone comes to your door to count you and give a you a 12 page, yes 12 page census form. Foreigners are included. Afterward, you receive a receipt that allows you to move about. So not much point in going anywhere. The hostel is cheap, with free coffee, tea, pancakes in the morning, WiFi, and kitchen facilities - beats a crappy hotel. I am thinking the country will start to move a bit by noon time but i have been told to be prepared to sit in until 6 pm. I will go shopping in a little while and stock up on food to cook for the day.




Meanwhile, rainy season is here in full force and we have been practicing the sitting part for census Sunday. I am feeling confident in our ability to deal with this adversity.