USHUAIA OR BUST ROUTE MAP

1.16.2011

Mendoza to Northern Patagonia

I finally tore myself away from Mendoza before I started looking for a job . . . but not until 3 in the afternoon - still managed to knock out 110km though. I passed by an uncountable number of small vineyards but only one huge sunflower field late in the day.
The riding was fast with the only hazard being the huge storm cells that built up in the afternoon and renown for their large hail but I rode between all of them. The provincial government has periodic shelters erected to escape from the hail and they made for shade as well on the treeless plains.
The giant cumulus make for some spectacular sunsets over the vineyards.
The landscape reminded my of Colorado except for the ever present Andes and vineyards.
Even the small tree filled towns - I camped the first night in the small town of San Carlos at a friendly hostel recommended to me by Daniel, the hostel owner in Mendoza. Argentinians camp a lot so campgrounds are pretty much everywhere - including municipal campgrounds in many towns and cities. I love being able to camp but walk to the supermarket to buy a hunk of flesh to throw on the parrilla (wood grill).
While I finally managed to get out of Mendoza, I stopped a day and half (260km) later in San Rafael for yet another late late night hanging out grilling with Argentinians. Also, met an American ex-pat, George, from Florida on my way into San Rafael living there with his family. We talked about how he enjoyed living in San Rafael despite Argentina's interminable struggle with inflation. George invited me to his home but after checking into a hostel full of Argentinians I was enjoying drinking mate and working on my Spanish. I, also, met a couple Argentinian cyclists that will be a nice connection when I reach Buenos Aires. I think this means go fast downhill . . . I like it but not much of a hill - sign must have been put up by flatlanders.
After San Rafael the country becomes pretty dry with small towns spread out. Camping is easy beside the road if you can find shelter from the wind but water is scarce. However, I had more Argentinians stop to offer me water, cold soda and ask if I needed anything in two days than the entire two months in Chile - good thing I needed it - like I didn't need it in the Atacama . . . Along the way folks began telling me about a couple ahead of me that started in Alaska - eventually I caught up with Harry and Ivana at a roadside shelter where we ducked out of the wind, had breakfast together, and we rode together for the next couple days.They have been on the road from Alaska since 2008 - go to http://elmundoenbici.com.Also, been running into Argentinian nationals out touring which is a first for any country but evidently bike touring is very popular here - besides the fact that Argentinians like to travel in general.They are checking out my bad ass ride!
Route 40 is the route 66 of Argentina but still the major/only north - south route on this side of the country. However, at times the road turns into a rough dirt road that may have been formally paved but has since been ground back into gravel. The rough riding has been the demise of my Schwalbe tires after 15,000+km of hard touring - they got a rest in Peru where I used my mountain bike tires a good deal but I am very impressed with how durable they were.I blew a hole straight through the casing and now have it booted and buttressed but it is only a matter of time before the tire blows again and I predict I will be rolling into Bariloche in 600km on my mountain bike tires. Good thing my sister and Matt are coming on vacation to Argentina and can bring me a new pair of tires to finish out the trip - along with some new bike shorts, my fly rod, coffee and peanut butter!Patagonia is living up to its reputation for fierce winds but at least they move around so it is not a continual head wind . . . the side winds blow me straight across the road making for strenuous riding wrestling with my handlebars leaning sideways for hours while I barreling down hills at 60+kph waiting for the rear tire to blow again.
While the country is dry water flows down from the Andes and collects in high valleys or out in the plains. Riding along the Rio Grande into northern Patagonia volcanic peaks dominate the scenery and the region has one of the highest concentrations of volcanic cones in the world and at times rivers carve narrow little canyons through lava rock. The rivers and lakes are prime fly fishing territory and seems more people here use fly rods than spinning gear - a bit of a switch from home. I am really looking forward to having my fly rod so I can catch some fish because I don't seem to have a clue with spin gear unless I am catching walleye in the Susquehanna River. Nevertheless, a beautiful place to camp and I still enjoyed waving my rod around at all the fish swirling on the surface eating something other than what I had to offer. They were obviously feeding on rising nymphs but you cannot imitate those with spinning gear . . . oh my kingdom for a 5wt and nymph rig! Eventually, I had to climb up and out of the Rio Grande valley and spent several days looking at the same volcano from all sides as I traversed around it.Passing through rolling plains and climbing into high valleys with very few people around.Higher up animals are grazing for the summer and in the winter they will be brought back down into the valleys to graze.
I talked briefly with a gaucho who lamented that a three year dry spell has made grazing difficult and diminished the herds of cattle but I still see lots of goats in the hills.I rolled into the green tree filled valley of Chos Malal for a rest day and writing after a 700+ km stretch. Chos Malal is a quiet little city and former provincial capitol but not for over hundred years now. Nevertheless, fairly prosperous due to the energy industry now controlled by the provincial government. I had an interesting conversation with a store clerk who was studying to be provincial police officer - evidently the province has the best pay and benefits for civil servants in Argentina, teachers and police, due to taking control of the energy industry from multinational corporations. Perhaps Peru could take a lesson from the Neuquen Province of Argentina . . .

1.11.2011

Mendoza

Walking around shady streets, strolling through plazas, sitting at sidewalk cafe/bars, going out until 4am, socializing with folks from Argentina to Australia at the hostel (www.casapueblohostel.com) working on my asadero skills (grilling) on the back patio - Mendoza has been a very pleasant stop and I have made some new friends that I will see at their homes in Patagonia.

Long conversations over beer, wine or mate have been varied and stimulating but typically Argentine revolving around politics, social issues and philosophy - I have long thought that Argentina is one of the more political/philosophically reflective countries that reminds me of France more than other Latin American countries.
But politics does not interfere with the enjoyment of life and the Argentine concern for aesthetics.
Conversations tend to be long and animated over lingering dinners that begin at 11pm and last past 2am.



















but you can always catch up on sleep during the long afternoon siesta.











1.07.2011

I met Jose Bonilla at the hostel I am staying at in Mendoza - he is from Mexico City studying graphic design in Buenos Aries, Argentina. His web site features his photography and gives you some impressions of the Southern Cone of South America.
http://www.josebonilladiary.blogspot.com/

1.04.2011

Argentina

I was ready to leave Chile but a little intimidated about riding out of Santiago. Thankfully, I received some great directions from the kind folks at La Bicicleta Verde and got out without a hitch. Though riding in three lanes of fast city traffic without a break down lane is a little tiresome maintaining a constant vigilance especially for the city buses. The only road to the Argentine border appeared to be unequivocally closed to anything but the internal combustion engine. . . however, police passed without a word. I saw other bikes on the highway and even met a couple roadies along the way and I followed a local commuter on some good frontage road going through a break in the fence to re-access the highway.I started climbing gradually out Santiago passing through the shady streets of Los Andes with a quick stop to shop for New Years eve then began climbing up the Rio Aconcagua. I did not know how much climbing I had to do exactly - preferring to leave the dread inducing details to discovery and packed 3 days of food. I had not done any big climbs since the Peruvian Andes 3 months ago so my acclimatization was long gone - Santiago, Chile is at 520 meters and the pass at 3200 meters = 2700 mts/8800 ft climbing. When I saw this sign it sort of sank in - gradiente fuerte prox. 55kms - and I camped by the river. Next morning the climbing began. Early in the afternoon the climbing began in earnest through 30 switchbacks (they number 'em I don't count 'em).
Looking down on the previous 16 switchbacks. Eventually the switchbacks ended at Portillo Ski area sitting on the head of a lake. Ski runs actually passed over the road using the long stretches of avalanche tunnel.
Cars were lined up waiting while Chilean customs got militant about vegetable confiscation. Also, vacationing Argentinos heading for the beaches try to bring food from home to avoid paying for it in Chile.
The final bit of climbing was in a avalanche tunnel closed to traffic but passable by bike avoiding the single lane traffic on a rough dirt road. I felt unbearably slow from the altitude.
The Christ the Redeemer Tunnel was a welcome sight and I was driven through the tunnel by a road worker that met me as I rode up.
And I was in Argentina.
And I began a nice 18km descent to the customs checkpoint setting a new personal speed record for the trip of 80+kph or 50mph - that is haulin' ass on a fully loaded touring bike I tucked and went.
The road passed Mt. Aconcagua and down a long alpine valley of the chocolate Rio Mendoza
Passing customs was a painless and I chatted with a group of middle aged women that invited me to dinner when I arrived in Mendoza - Argentine customs did not bother with inspecting me.
It started to rain a little riding down the valley - my first real rain in a long time and I set my tent out of sight off to the side of the road. In the morning I repacked all my gear for the rain.
Riding through a morning drizzle the day cleared as I moved down the valley.
Passing through Upsallata I stopped at a Parrilla for grilled meat that Argentina is famous for. Heading out of town the promise of a good soaking with thunder and lightening stopped me to put on my rain coat right outside of a hostel . . . I stopped passing a nice afternoon/night visiting with some Brazilian cyclists and cleaning my stove. One of them was a primary school teacher in Sao Paolo, we adjusted our headsets together then enjoyed the stars chatting about teaching. He spoke Portuguese while I spoke Spanish - the two languages close enough to be mutually intelligible. I have always loved the sound of Brazilian Portuguese.
I was glad I stopped because the view in the morning was incredible looking towards Aconcagua and I thought of my skis in the attic.
I continued down valley through 20+ tunnels
while white water rafters played below me in the Rio Mendoza.
The city of Mendoza is on a flat plain below the mountains that water endless vineyards.
Mendoza is a good sized city of 110,000 people but I sailed right past the city. The entire city is shaded by large trees and looks more like a forest than a city from the road.
Once in the city you walk below the shady canopy while people sit out side at the "restobars" or play in the abundant public space.