Volcano Conception

First, I must thank Duncan, the Brit geologist, for convincing Matt, Paul, Silva and myself to climb perfect cone of Conception over beers. I really needed a rest day after 4-5 days of riding. I am still crippled Duncan you bastard.We started out of town from the hostel by 5:30 am for potentially a 10 to 12 hour trek up and down the volcano. We hiked up through bananas, olive trees and coffee to stop at the "gateway" to pay a nominal fee (30 cordobas/$1.50) to climb the volcano. Noting the gatekeeper sharpening his machete Silvio said we better pay . . . Matt noticed some long thin vines, Silvio said they were good for binding and strangling people . . . completely deadpan . . . I like this guy and the nervous laughter.





The climb quickly steepened as it bee lined up the cone through the thick jungle of the lower slopes. Howler monkeys heralded our ascent and at one rest point we watched a troop of Capuchin monkeys feeding in the canopy across a narrow drainage. I was completely soaked - sweat dripped from nose to finger tips and i discarded my shirt after wringing it out and placing on a bush to dry as I continued to climb.









We quickly started to clear the canopy to view the other volcano and waist of the island. We entered a misty hot cloud forest environment that was dense with orchids!



I have been looking for orchids blooming in the wild for the better part of two decades of travel. Usually, I am visiting the wrong time of the year to see them but not this time. Initially, I noticed a few then realized the slopes were covered with many varieties of orchids.









The slopes of Volcano Conception are well know for orchids and certain types exist in only one or two other cloud forest environments in the world. For some reason I thought about King Kong . . .


The upper slopes are steep, loose, black volcanic soil dominated by vegetation with large crinkled leaves for capturing moisture. The richness of the soil around the volcanoes means farmers do not have to fallow fields and plant continuously as rains wash fresh soil and nutrients down the slopes.



Leaves were layered with fine coat of sulfurous ash from the continuous smoking of the volcano.
Nearing the top was a sea of broad leaves looking out over the island.
Within 50 meters of the caldera edge vegetation ceased to grow. The smell of sulfur filled your nose and the ground became noticeably warm. Thin plumes of steam escaped the loose soil. You could not help but wonder, "is this safe"? Evidently, the answer is, "no". No way you could do this in the United States but who are you going to sue here?

I came up to the edge and looked over.

I knew I was appropriately impressed because Silvio was impressed, and he sometimes climbs this volcano 3-4 times a week. We had a clear view into the base of the caldera. There is no visible lava but a continual dull roar of escaping plumes of gas. The soil was steep and unconsolidated causing me to step back from the edge. There would be no return from that slide for life. He encouraged us to take photos now before our view disappears. We stood around the edge and Duncan gave us a primer on volcano types, how they are formed, and plate tectonics. Duncan has been climbing a lot of volcanoes in his past year or so trotting around the globe. I have never climbed an active volcano before and could not have been more pleased with my first.