devotion frees: Huaras, Peru

I arrived in Huaras, Peru and parked myself at Olazas Guest House www.olazas.com with Tito Olaza and family. This is my fourth visit to Huaras and it is nice to be someplace familiar staying with friends. My first visit was in 1989 to alpine climb with a friend, Nick Yardley. We climbed Alpamayo (5947m) and Chopicalqui (6354m).

Alpamayo

The climbing was spectacular. But, even then, hiking up the high valleys to base camps I thought, "damn what great mountain biking!" When not in the mountains climbing Nick and I hung out at the famous/infamous expat climbers' bar, The Tasco, telling lies and half truths. I finally returned to the Cordillera

Blanca with a mountain bike after thinking about it for 15 years. I went looking around Huaras for information and walked into the office of Mountain Bike Adventures www.chakinaniperu.com. Overall, an easy choice because Mountain Bike Adventures already had a solid world reputation but the guy behind the desk looked familiar both of us were a little stumped . . . until one of us asked, "did you hang out at the Tasco Bar"? Julio Olaza ran the former Tasco Bar, now is the owner of Mountain Bike Adventures, and a friendship was renewed. This time over bikes instead of beers.
The area around Huaras is some of the best mountain biking I have ever done - from short day rides to multi-day epics through the mountains. Consequently, despite the overabundance of biking I have done this year, I switched out my road tires for some fat 29'er mtn bike tires that Julio had laying around and went for a couple rides with Julio.

3-4000 foot ascents and descents are normal and riding longer trekking routes means at least 6000 foot climbs - though Julio eases the pain for clients with vehicle assists.

Aside from using Julio's tools to work on my bike, I have spent most of my time in Huaras eating - not riding. Ceviche, chicken, and the occasional burger.

Nobody is going to call the city of Huaras beautiful - after all it was leveled in a 1970 earthquake that claimed the lives of 70,000 people in the region. However, Huaras is in the Callejón de Huaylas along Rio Santa with the Cordillera Blanca to the east and the Cordillera Negra to the west. The Cordillera Blanca is the second highest mountain range in the world with 35 peaks over 6000 meters packed into a range only 200km long and 20km wide. Across the valley is the more diminutive Cordillera Negra (no snow) with a elevation generally below 5000 meters. Everywhere you look is dominated by peaks and they are easy to access.

After returning to the same place for over 20 years I have seen a lot of changes - the city of 100,000 has become wealthy from gold mining, streets are now paved, sewers are no longer open, and someday they will finish the cathedral - though I remember when it was only a foundation. . . but my favorite chifa is still in business and Brassa Roja still has the best roasted chicken, fries, and salad.

I wondered how this trip would affect my perception of Peru after seeing many other places but I will be returning to ride and hang out with the Olaza brothers.