I am still on route 85, carretera Mexico - Laredo, the original road between Mexico City and Laredo. I stopped in the mid afternoon for a coke and beer ($1.50) and noticed an arena set off the road so i wandered over to check it out. Vaqueros were practicing for charreada, which is the original form of rodeo, no bull riding but emphasizing practical ranch skills. Initially, they were roping horses by the hind legs as they shot down a 10 meter wide race into a small arena. Immediately, they noticed me, how could you not! I was the only other person there and in lycra with a loaded touring bike. One of the older gentlemen came over and asked me the usually questions about where i was going, from etc... He was enthused about my "adventura" and grasped the spirit of the trip as an individual adventure. He did not think i was crazy or ask questions about camping with wild animals (still get that a lot) or bemoan the fact that i was unmarried without children. He admired my bike setup and thought it was eminently practical. As we chatted several other older vaqueros (my age now that i think about it) came over the the arena edge on horse and foot to say hola and shake my hand. They were coaching two younger vaqueros in the arena and took turns saying chatting and coaching.
Meanwhile, I settled into to taking some photos after asking permission and noted the finer points on the use of the word "chingar," a unique and complex Mexican swear. I was flattered to be referred to as "chingon," which is roughly translated as a bad ass or having huevons.
They were never harsh in their direction. Everyone seemed to have a great sense of humor, though at times the younger guys would get frustrated, but frustration quickly turned to laughter and more work.
The horsemanship was impressive and you gotta dig the hats. I commented that the cow seemed very patient with repeated roping.
Eventually, we parted ways after a couple buena suertes and vaya con dios.
I am still on route 85, carretera Mexico - Laredo, the original road between Mexico City and Laredo. I stopped in the mid afternoon for a coke and beer ($1.50) and noticed an arena set off the road so i wandered over to check it out. Vaqueros were practicing for charreada, which is the original form of rodeo, no bull riding but emphasizing practical ranch skills. Initially, they were roping horses by the hind legs as they shot down a 10 meter wide race into a small arena. Immediately, they noticed me, how could you not! I was the only other person there and in lycra with a loaded touring bike. One of the older gentlemen came over and asked me the usually questions about where i was going, from etc... He was enthused about my "adventura" and grasped the spirit of the trip as an individual adventure. He did not think i was crazy or ask questions about camping with wild animals (still get that a lot) or bemoan the fact that i was unmarried without children. He admired my bike setup and thought it was eminently practical. As we chatted several other older vaqueros (my age now that i think about it) came over the the arena edge on horse and foot to say hola and shake my hand. They were coaching two younger vaqueros in the arena and took turns saying chatting and coaching.
Meanwhile, I settled into to taking some photos after asking permission and noted the finer points on the use of the word "chingar," a unique and complex Mexican swear. I was flattered to be referred to as "chingon," which is roughly translated as a bad ass or having huevons.
They were never harsh in their direction. Everyone seemed to have a great sense of humor, though at times the younger guys would get frustrated, but frustration quickly turned to laughter and more work.
The horsemanship was impressive and you gotta dig the hats. I commented that the cow seemed very patient with repeated roping.
Eventually, we parted ways after a couple buena suertes and vaya con dios.
McCausland.Susan chingar is pretty versatile I always thought it meant fuck
ReplyDeleteGreg Mccausland it can but it has the connotation of rape and refers directly to la malinche - the mother of all mexicans - consort to cortes that led him inland
mccausland.susani had no idea about la malinche. always a womans fault huh?
Greg Mccausland chingada - is the fucked one - la malinche
Greg Mccausland she was the princess given to cortes
mccausland.susan oh their own fault then. shouldn't piss a woman off
Greg Mccausland yeah it is an awesome word but only for mexicans - everytime you hear "hijos" it is an abbreviation of hijos de la chingada
Greg Mccausland sons of the fucked one - very fatalistic
Hey!
ReplyDeleteWhat is your plan for once you get closer to Mexico City. I should be in Tula, Hidalgo, tomorrow, on my way around to Puebla (without going into Mexico City). Let me know if you are at all in the vicinity.
-Matt.
pedalpanam.com
Hey Matt - i am less than 200km from Puebla and depending how much i want to throw down could be roliing into there tomorrow evening. I am pretty sure i have a place to stay in cholula, puebla through warmshower.org. - right now i am writing from cd. sahagun. i was going to avoid Mexico city on my bike. we should be able to catch up - gots no phone but i will stay on the email and will be chillin a bit in cholula. where are you heading from there?
ReplyDelete