Into and Outta New Orleans

The day was warm and muted by fog, last night 7 inches of rain fell, water languishes on the landscape. Reminds me of the Taoist saying, "the highest good is like water for it benefits the myriad creatures without causing contention and settles in the lowest place," . . . perhaps in moderation. I pedaled down the road looking at the endless swamp for alligators, just 'cause, Tom Waits stuck in my head, again.

Later in the day, after miles of bayou and coast line, Tom was replaced by Billy Joel's "Piano Man," in french blaring from truck speakers in a trailer's front yard. Interesting take on a catchy tune but ultimately disappointing because i really do not like Billy Joel.


Route 90 West is a rough two lane as it approaches New Orleans with lots of wrecked boats, concrete pads, and pilings pointing to the sky without purpose. I got my first flat of the trip from a nail, no big deal, a five minute job, but the mosquitoes are fierce.

Technically, all of the bridges in New Orleans are closed to bicycles . . . this can make New Orleans by bike difficult if you are a law abiding type or just a little pain in the ass. I got my NYCycle-tude on and rode like a Mack truck - to be honest traffic was pretty light.



I have been to New Orleans numerous times over the decades, and it has changed, i have changed, but it felt like a shell with too many empty buildings. The french quarter remains intact, tacky at times, but charming with an explosion of art galleries - however, tourism is no excuse for a real economy.

New Orleans is still a busy port, though, and as i rode out along the west bank levee i whiffed everything from methane to molasses to perfume and petroleum.

I spent the night in the hostel "India" in midtown - had some pleasant conversation with Hoon from S. Korea and Morgan from France but the bed sucked with its plastic cover sheet and saggy springs. Otherwise, i ate and talked! BBQ with a friend of a friend from Binghamton and pastries in the morning before boarding the ferry at the end of Canal St. and heading out of town along the west bank of the Mississippi River.